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Gem Trade

Taking a Shine to the Rough

Colored stones are a fascinating ancient treasure that collectors still covet today. And unlike the complex methods used for harvesting diamonds, many colored stones are the domain of artisanal miners who find nearby areas they can claim and start digging with rudimentary tools. These sparkling gems are usually found in exotic regions where most foreigners will never visit.

Gem Trade

Guide to Buying Gemstones and Jewelry – An Overview

How to select quality gemstones and gemstone jewelry Beauty. Rarity. Durability. Discover the attributes that attract us to colored gemstones for personal adornment and make gemstones valuable and precious. Colored gemstones provide the opportunity for uniquely personal expression. Contact us when buying your gemstone jewelry to ensure you select the highest quality gemstone jewelry for your budget. How Gemstones Are Graded While gemstones have similar quality factors as diamonds(cut, clarity, color and cut), they are valued differently for gemstones. For example, color is by far the most important C for colored gemstones, whereas cut is usually considered the most important C for diamonds but it’s still important with colored gems too. Gemstone Color Most colored gemstones derive their beauty from their color – purples, blues, greens, yellows, oranges, reds. Three factors relate to a gemstone’s color: Hue: the pure color on the spectrum, describes the dominant color and any additional colors visible in a gem. Tone: the lightness or darkness of a color. In the GIA color-grading system, tones range from very light to very dark. Saturation or intensity: is the purity of the hue. When buying colored gemstone jewelry, select what you consider beautiful. Because of the subtle differences in the tone and hue of the colored gemstone you are considering, look at several to find the one you prefer. Each gem variety has an optimal hue, tone and saturation. And some customers may prefer lighter saturated gems and some may like higher saturated gems, therefore it is the personal preference. We can show you and explain the how gemstones each exhibit their optimal color. Gemstone Cut Gem cutters work to achieve a pleasing and affordable mix of color, weight and a safe shape for mounting. During creation, a gemstone’s size is constrained by nature. For example, while large and beautiful amethysts are readily available, an alexandrite or a Sapphire of large size is extremely rare. Sparkle adds to the beauty of a well-cut colored gemstone. The cut of a colored gemstone describes its shape and how it is fashioned. Some gemstones, such as opal, are suited to a smooth, rounded surface. Others, such as sapphire, are more frequently shaped with a precise series of flat, symmetrical planes, called facets, which make the most pleasing illumination of the gem’s color. Some cutters today may also use modern fancy, convex or concave facets or shaping colored gemstone like small sculptures. It is important that a faceted Gem is not windowed, means that the gemstones shall bear a full internal light performance. Therefore, the value of a gem shall greatly depend on the cutting quality of a gem as well. However, in modern gemstone cutting, some gems are purposely windowed with flat cuts known as portrait cuts or rose cuts which are also preferred among clients. Gemstone Clarity The clarity of colored gemstones contributes to their beauty. Unless a gemstone is opaque and blocks all light, how light moves through the gemstone affects its beauty. Some gemstones have few natural internal inclusions to interrupt the passage of light but may not affect the beauty of the gemstone. Others have characteristic inclusions. For example, some emerald has a “jardine” (garden), which makes each gem truly unique. It is to be noted that some gems have specific inclusions which are more unique to its varieties such as the horsetail inclusions in Russian Demantoid Garnets. Thus, inclusions provide a unique character to the gem. However, gems with very slight inclusions are called as slightly included in the trade, gems with no internal visible inclusions to the naked eye are called as eye clean and if they are not visible to the standard 10x loupe they are called as loupe clean. There shall be a price variation between these categories. Gemstone Size Gemstone weight is measured carats. The jewelry industry also measures colored gemstones by dimensions in millimeters in addition to carat weight. Millimeter size is taken into consideration when matching colored gemstones for a ring, earrings or other types of jewelry. In trade, higher the weight shall increase the price since larger gems are much rarer than the smaller gems. Gemstone Durability A gemstone’s ability to be fashioned, mounted and worn is a function of how durable it is – a matter of both hardness and toughness. Some gemstones, such as sapphire, ruby, spinels and garnet, are well-suited to an active daily life and work well in rings, bracelets or cufflinks. Others, such as emeralds, pearls and opals call for earring or necklace mountings to keep them beautifully displayed but out of harm’s way. Typically, gemstones are graded for its hardness on the Moh’s scale. In general, gemstones above 8 on the scale are much preferred for daily wear jewelry. Gemstone Enhancements In certain colored gemstones color occurs naturally. Satisfying hues are intrinsic in some garnets, for example. In other colored gemstones, the final color occurs with assistance. For nearly as long as people have worn rubies, we have known how to treat a rough ruby with heat to obtain a desirable red color. Not all rubies are heat treated, but the vast majority are. Because of their rarity, gemstones in which color is naturally occurring are generally more valuable. Many gemstones are treated or enhanced in some way, such as with heat or safe irradiation, to achieve the beautiful colors or clarity we desire in the sizes we desire. These gems, which are less rare, can also be very valuable. Some jewelers make synthetic colored gemstones available. Synthetic colored gemstones have all the optical, physical and chemical properties of naturally occurring gemstones, but they are created in a laboratory rather than occurring in nature. Buying Colored Gemstone Jewelry – the basics When selecting colored gemstone consider the following: Do you love the color? What variety is the gem? Does the gemstone have brilliance and fire? Does the size match? We offer loose colored gemstones and will help you create a personalized mounting. You may prefer to buy a finished jewelry item. Discuss

Gem Trade

Sri Lankan Gem Mining Industry

A gem pit in Ceylon, Sri Lanka, 1903. Royal Geographical Society. The Sri Lankan gem mining industry has a long and rich history, dating back over 2,000 years. Today, the country is known for producing some of the world’s most precious and high-quality gems, including sapphires, rubies, and other rare stones. Sri Lanka, also known as Ceylon, is located in the Indian Ocean and has a tropical climate, making it ideal for gemstone mining. The island nation is rich in minerals and has a variety of gem deposits, including alluvial deposits in river beds and gem-bearing formations in the earth. The Sri Lankan gem industry is comprised of licensed mines and dealers who follow strict regulations and adhere to ethical standards. The industry is highly regulated and closely monitored by the government to ensure the legality and ethics of gemstone production and sale. The Sri Lankan Gem & Jewellery Association, a trade association for the industry, works to promote ethical standards and promote the sale of Sri Lankan gems both domestically and abroad. In recent years, the Sri Lankan gem industry has faced a number of challenges, including declining production levels and increasing competition from other gem-producing countries. Despite these challenges, the industry remains an important contributor to the Sri Lankan economy and continues to produce some of the world’s most prized gemstones. Overall, the Sri Lankan gem mining industry is a complex and dynamic sector that is rich in history and continues to play an important role in the global gemstone market. Whether you are a collector, dealer, or simply interested in the industry, understanding the Sri Lankan gem mining industry is essential for anyone looking to buy or sell high-quality gems.

Gem Trade

Exploring Beyond the Standard

Gemstones have been cherished for their beauty and rarity for thousands of years, and traditional cuts such as round, oval, and emerald have long been popular choices for jewelry. However, in recent years, a new trend has emerged in the gemstone world: modern fancy cuts. These unique cuts offer a fresh and contemporary take on gemstones, breaking away from the standard shapes and allowing for greater creativity and individuality in jewelry design. From bold, geometric shapes to delicate, abstract cuts, modern fancy gems offer a wide range of possibilities for designers and jewelry enthusiasts alike. One of the key benefits of modern fancy cuts is the ability to maximize the beauty of the stone itself. By cutting gems in new and unconventional ways, it is possible to bring out the unique colors, patterns, and inclusions of the stone, creating a truly one-of-a-kind piece. This can also result in a more efficient use of the stone, with less waste and a more visually impactful result. Another advantage of modern fancy cuts is that they often have a more understated elegance compared to traditional cuts. While a traditional round or oval cut gem may have a classic beauty, modern fancy cuts can add a touch of sophistication and individuality to jewelry designs. Some popular examples of modern fancy cuts include portrait cuts, shields, kites, hexagons, free form shapes and other modified standard cuts. Each of these cuts offers a unique twist on traditional shapes, and can be used in a variety of jewelry styles, from statement pieces to delicate, everyday designs. In conclusion, modern fancy gem cuts are a great way to bring fresh energy to traditional gemstone jewelry. Whether you are a jewelry designer or simply looking for a unique and eye-catching piece, exploring beyond the standard cuts is a must for anyone looking to stay at the forefront of gemstone fashion.

Gem Trade

Celebrated Blue Sapphires from Sri Lanka

As one of the world’s steadiest suppliers of top-quality sapphires and seventy-five other types of gemstones, Sri Lanka is one of the most important countries in the world when it comes to gem and jewellery, despite its small size. Hailed as the mythical Tarshish, the legendary island of invaluable gemstones, Sri Lanka has been the source of many celebrated gemstones throughout history. According to Hebrew records Queen Sheba’s great ruby and the star ruby in King Solomon’s ring has been sourced from Tarshish, nearly 30 centuries back. Sri Lanka has long celebrated as the main source for large blue sapphires and star corundum, that are above the size of 100 carats. Incidentally, 60% of the largest gemstones including sapphires had been sourced from this small island in the Indian Ocean. In this post you will read about the most celebrated Blue Sapphire from Sri Lanka Here is the list: Star of Adam Logan Sapphire Star of India Blue Giant of the Orient Blue Belle of Asia British Royal Engagement Ring Sapphire Brooch of Empress Maria Alexandrovna Hall Sapphire and Diamond Necklace 01. Star of Adam Sri Lanka is the proud source of world three largest sapphires; a Blue giant of the Orient, Logan Blue Sapphire and the Blue Belle of Asia, all ranging between 400 – 466 carats. In addition to the world’s largest sapphires, Sri Lanka has also been the source of some of the largest star sapphires in the world, the largest being the Star of Adam, an oval-shaped blue sapphire weighing 1,404.49 carats. 02. Logan Sapphire Another renowned Ceylon Sapphire is the Logan Sapphire, now housed at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History. The 423 carats violently blue coloured, Logan Sapphire, which is the size of an egg, is one of the world’s third-largest faceted blue sapphires and the heaviest mounted gem in the National Gem Collection at the Smithsonian. 03. Star of India Incidentally, another large star sapphire known as ‘Star of India‘  too originated from Sri Lanka and is now housed at the American Museum of Natural History. At the size of a golf ball, the greyish blue star of India is 564 carat in weight and contains a unique six-string star caused by the mineral traces in the gemstone. 04. Blue Giant of the Orient The world’s largest faceted blue sapphire,’ Blue Giant of the Orient‘ too owns its origin to Sri Lanka. Discovered in Sri Lanka in 1907, this brilliant blue 486-carat large sapphire was purchased by an anonymous American buyer and remained out of the limelight until it resurfaced at Christie’s jewels auction catalogue in 2004. Set in a platinum frame styled with diamonds, the blue sapphire brooch was purchased by a British buyer at the price of US$ 1 million. 05. Blue Belle of Asia World’s fourth-largest Sapphire, Blue Belle of Asia has also been mined from Ratnapura, Sri Lanka in 1926. The 400-carat peacock blue sapphire mounted on a necklace of diamonds and platinum fetched 17 million dollars at a rare jewellery auction in Geneva by Christie’s in 2014, which is the highest ever price set on a sapphire. 06. British Royal Engagement Ring The engagement ring given to Lady Diana Spencer by Charles, the Prince of Wales with a 12 carat Ceylon Sapphire set in 18K white gold is maybe the most popular piece of Jewellery with a Ceylon Sapphire. The royal sapphire originated from a mine in Pelmadulla, Sri Lanka, renowned for superior quality sapphires. Generations later the same ring was given to Kate Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge by Prince William, continuing the legacy of Ceylon Sapphires. 07. Sapphire Brooch of Empress Maria Alexandrovna Despite the popularity of the Royal engagement ring, Sapphire Brooch of Empress Maria Alexandrovna, now on display at the  Diamond Fund Exhibition, Moscow, Russia, is one of the exquisite Ceylon Blue Sapphires found in the world. A gift from Russian Emperor Alexander II to his wife Empress Maria Alexandrovna; this priceless masterpiece is characteristic for its colour, cut, size and clarity.  Unlike most of the stones of its size, its colour is evenly distributed and holds a medium-dark saturated blue colour prevalent in highly-priced stones. 08. Hall Sapphire and Diamond Necklace Another remarkable specimen of jewellery made with Ceylon Sapphires is the Hall Sapphire and Diamond Necklace, which features 36 cushion-cut sapphires from Sri Lanka, totalling 195 carats set in platinum along with brilliant-cut diamonds totalling to 83.75 carats. The well-matched sapphire stones have been sourced from Sri Lanka and the necklace was designed by Harry Winston Inc. for Mrs Evelyn Annenberg Hall, who donated the necklace to Smithsonian gem collection in 1979.  The Star Sapphire Necklace at Smithsonian gem collection also carries a sky blue star sapphire from Sri Lanka weighing nearly 60 carats. With a clearly visible six-rayed star created through an optical phenomenon called chatoyancy, the star sapphire has been rough cut and is set in platinum along with   126 diamonds by Marcus &Co. Created nearly three billion years ago, Sapphires are a natural wonder found in abundance in Sri Lanka, making this small island world’s number one destination for large size sapphires.  References Sivaramakrishnan. P. “World’s largest blue star sapphire ‘found in Sri Lanka’”, 2016, BBC, https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-35226276 Logan Sapphire, Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History, https://geogallery.si.edu/10002687/logan-sapphire Star of India, Encyclopaedia Britannica, https://www.britannica.com/topic/Star-of-India 10 jewels that made history – and changed the market, Christie’s, https://www.christies.com/features/10-jewels-that-created-auction-history-and-changed-the-market-9549-3.aspx  A Spectacular Sapphire and Diamond Necklace, Christie’s, https://www.christies.com/lotfinder/Lot/a-spectacular-sapphire-and-diamond-necklace-5844924-details.aspx Royal ring sapphire ‘came from Sri Lanka’, BBC, https://www.bbc.com/news/world-south-asia-13214228 Sapphire Brooch – Treasures of the Tsars, Jewels of the Romanovs, http://www.alexanderpalace.org/jewels/sapphire.html  Hall Sapphire Necklace, Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History, https://geogallery.si.edu/10002709/hall-sapphire-necklace  Star Sapphire Necklace, Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History, https://geogallery.si.edu/10002719/star-sapphire-necklace 

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